Category Archives: Hardware

How to Clean a CD

I’ve seen a lot of people clean CDs completely wrong. There’s a good reason why most libraries and video rental stores have labels on their discs telling people not to try to clean them—if you do it wrong, you have a good chance of permanently damaging the disc.

There are a lot of ways to clean a CD, but first, here’s how not to clean a CD: Do not rub around the CD in circles. This can cause further scratches. (Furthermore, circular scratches are the most likely to cause permanent data loss, as they wipe out a large amount of consecutive data. Most systems have an error-correction algorithm that can compensate for a small amount of consecutive unreadable data, such as when the disc scratches from the center to the edge.)

Here are two acceptable ways:

  • The simplest way is to take a soft cloth and some CD cleaning solution (lens cleaner is almost the same stuff, and is often advertised as both), spray a bit of solution onto the cloth (I’ve heard that you’re not supposed to spray it on the disc, although I’m not sure why), and rub the CD gently from the center to the outside of the disc. Then turn the disc slightly and repeat. As mentioned above, don’t use any other pattern.
  • Another common method is to run it under the tap and then wipe it off gently (from center to edge, of course), or let it air dry. Some people recommend taking it into the shower, which does essentially the same thing.
Even if you have to use your T-shirt to wipe off the disc because you don’t have anything else handy, please remember: center to edge, not in circles. It pains me to see people rubbing CDs all over their scratchy jeans in random patterns thinking they’re making it better.

If a disc is badly scratched, many people report getting good results by rubbing toothpaste all over the disc, letting it sit for a few minutes, and then cleaning it off. The idea is that you wear off a thin layer of the non-scratched portion of the surface, thus making the scratch shallower. This is not something to try unless the disc doesn’t work anyway and you realize that you might destroy it completely.

Cleaning Your Computer, Part 5: The Case

Your actual computer is the part that usually gets the dirtiest. Fans actually electrically attract dust, which allows them to pull junk into your case at a frightening rate. Since most people never open their computers or even think about cleaning them, the problem usually goes unnoticed. If left alone, the dust can do serious damage by stopping fans, thus causing components to overheat and be permanently damaged. Here’s a quick way to clean out your computer’s case.


  • A can of compressed air. Used to loosen dust and blow it out of fans.
  • A vacuum cleaner. This time the vacuum is essential. If you don’t have one with a crevice tool and can’t borrow one, you might be able to do something with your hands, but it would be a real pain.)

Step 0: Spray compressed air into the fans while your system is running.
This helps to dislodge dust from the fans, as they will blow out the loosened dust. You’ll have to flip the computer around to the back to find a fan on many computers. If you need to, you can disconnect all the cables except the power cable (to avoid possible damage to components that aren’t intended to be unplugged with the power on, switch the computer off, disconnect everything except the power cable, and then switch the power back on).

Step 1: Power down your system and remove the cables.
Take it to a desk or comfortable, open spot on the floor.

Step 2: Clean the power supply fan.
Spray some air in, then vacuum the opening. The power supply fan is next to the power connection, and looks like this:

(Note: The system appears to be plugged in, but that cord is disconnected at the other end.)

Step 3: Clean any other exposed fans.
They’ll look different on each computer, but here’s an example:

Step 4: Open the case.
Find where the case opens. This can sometimes be a bit of a trick. Usually there will be large hand screws on one side of the case, a clip at the top and/or bottom, or a small clip like this one:Once you’ve found the locking mechanism, the side of the case should slide right off.

Before doing anything inside a computer, you should always ground yourself by touching some unpainted metal; the side of the power supply or case is usually a good bet. We’re not planning on touching any components here, but it can’t hurt to be safe.

Step 5: Vacuum out the case, being careful not to touch components.
Spray some compressed air into anything stuck and vacuum out all the dust bunnies. This picture of the inside of the case is tame because I’d recently used it for a demonstration of upgrading RAM and had thus cleaned it out—most people’s will be filled with dust.If you have a Dell computer, that big curvy green piece of plastic is a common feature. It helps channel the heat from the processor heatsink directly into the exhaust fan, thereby avoiding the need for a second fan. You should clean under it by popping it out; it just swings outward when you grab it from the edges, like this:You should also spray some compressed air in the heatsinks, which are those blocks of parallel metal fins (one is in nearly the exact center of the above picture). They help to radiate heat from components that make a lot of it, and it’s very common for dust to get stuck between the fins and reduce their efficiency.

A final target is the vents in the back of the power supply, which tends to get clogged with dust. If the power supply fan stops working, your power supply will quickly overheat and your system is likely to shut down or (worse) malfunction silently. Here’s an example:(Warning: Never open the power supply unit itself if you don’t know what you’re doing with electricity; there are large capacitors in there which can deliver some serious shocks even if the computer is unplugged.)

Be careful not to rub against components with the vacuum; even if you do, it probably won’t damage anything, but better safe than sorry.

Step 6: Put everything back together.
Getting the case back on is sometimes an exercise in frustration—it’s usually much harder than getting it off. With a little persistence, though, you should be able to figure it out.

Cleaning Your Computer, Part 4: Mice

Mice aren’t usually a big problem source in terms of getting dirty, simply because there aren’t many surfaces that stuff can stick to where it won’t immediately rub off. Still, when you’re writing a complete guide to cleaning your computer, it’s hard to ignore the mouse.


  • Rubbing alcohol. Yes, it’s back yet again.
  • Q-tips. No surprises here.
  • A dust cloth or something similar. Some surfaces of mice just need some wiping down; a dust cloth or even a plain old sponge will do fine for this.

And that’s pretty much it. You could maybe find a use for some Cyber Clean, but it’s not really necessary.

Step 1: Unplug the mouse from the computer and/or turn it off or remove the batteries.
If you skip this step, you could look back at your monitor and find you’ve accidentally purchased something useless on eBay. Okay, most of the time it’s not quite that dramatic, but bad things can happen when you’re mousing without intending to go anywhere.

Step 2: Clean the eye.
Nearly all mice today are optical, which means they have a little camera on the bottom. To clean it, just put some rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip and wipe it off. It rarely gets dirty, but it can’t hurt to check.

If you find that your mouse is so old that it still has a ball, unscrew the ring by turning it in the direction of the arrows, pop out the ball, and clean the ball and the rollers (using Q-tips).

Step 3: Wipe down the mouse.
No tricks here, just good old elbow grease. Make sure you don’t drip a bunch of water into the mouse if you’re using water, but otherwise this is all common sense.

Cleaning Your Computer, Part 3: Keyboards

Keyboards seem to be dust magnets (and hair magnets and staple magnets…). Even if you don’t immediately notice the junk accumulating in your keyboard, it has the potential to cause problems with the keyboard—and if you wait for years before doing it, you are likely to have some trouble getting the gook out. And, of course, it’s just disgusting, and a lot of us like to keep things clean.


  • A can of compressed air. This is used to spray air into the corners and loosen up dirt.
  • Some newspaper (a trash can with a large opening works well too). You’re going to want to shake your keyboard upside down to dislodge some of the junk, and you probably don’t want it on your floor.
  • A canister or handheld vacuum cleaner. If you have one, it will come in handy; if you only have an upright, you can do without it.
  • Some Cyber Clean. Once again, it’s not mandatory, but it does come in handy.
  • Two strong paperclips. If you need to remove key caps, this is the safest way to do it.
  • Some rubbing alcohol, a bowl, and some Q-tips. These let you clean between the keys.

Warning about Compressed Air: Since I haven’t had you use compressed air yet, I should take just a moment to point something out: the stuff is not entirely normal air (it would be too expensive to pressurize normal air). While the pressurized chemicals are not dangerous if used normally, you should keep these guidelines in mind:

  • Do not shake the bottle before using (unlike most aerosol products). This is because most aerosols are intended to come out as liquid, but compressed air is not. If you shake compressed air, the product will come out in its liquid form, which is so cold that it can discolor plastics and cause frostbite.
  • Do not turn the bottle upside down. Once again, this will cause liquid to come out. Tilting it a bit is fine, but don’t go beyond 45 degrees.
  • Do not attempt to inhale the contents. (Duh, but people do it.)
  • As with any aerosol product, don’t spray it next to flames or in unventilated areas.
With that covered, let’s get down to business.

Step 0: Unplug the keyboard.
This isn’t difficult, but it is easy to forget.

Step 1: Spray compressed air to loosen dust.
Lift up the Ctrl keys, the tilde key, and the backspace key at the corner and spray some compressed air in (using the little flexible nozzle that usually comes taped to the side of the bottle). Depending on your keyboard, you may need to use a bent paperclip to lift the corner enough to get the nozzle in. This can be a bit of an art at times: sometimes you have to start lifting up the key on a different side than you actually need it lifted and then slide around the edge of the key.

(To get this paperclip shape, just take the central loop and pull it outwards until the angle looks right.)

Step 2: Remove excess loose dust.
Take the keyboard outside or over some newspaper or a large trash can, flip the keyboard upside down, and shake it vigorously. Good whacks on the bottom don’t hurt.

Step 3: Vacuum.
Spray the compressed air in the corners again, then get your vacuum cleaner. (You must plug in the vacuum cleaner before it will work, as I apparently forgot…) If you have the crevice tool handy, that works the best. Push down one row of keys and vacuum toward the gap, then repeat the other way.When you’re done, spray compressed air, vacuum, and shake upside down again. If you don’t have an appropriate vacuum cleaner handy, you can skip this step; using a liberal amount of compressed air and shaking makes a decent substitute.

Step 4: Use Cyber Clean.
If you have some, use it. If you’ve never used it before, it’s easy: just pull it out of the container, stick it on top of your keyboard, and squish it into the spaces.

Step 5: Clean the spaces between keys.
If you didn’t use Cyber Clean or the spaces between the keys still look dusty and/or grimy, moisten a Q-tip with rubbing alcohol and clean between rows. Hold down one key to clean the facing key’s side, then switch to get the other (just like you did with the vacuum cleaner).(Incidentally, this picture was nearly impossible to get, since I only had two hands. It took me four tries and hurt my fingers.)

Step 6: Remove key caps (optional).
Unless your keyboard is really dirty (which it probably is if you’ve never cleaned it before), you should probably skip this step. You should minimize the number of times you pop off the caps, as every time is another opportunity for something to break. If you haven’t cleaned your keyboard in five years or it’s noticeably gummed up, though, it’s worth the bother. (If you’re not sure, try popping off a cap in the middle first, like the ‘h’ key. If it looks reasonably clean underneath, you’re probably good. Also, here’s a picture of what it looked like under the caps after I cleaned using every other step; before it was utterly filthy and filled with dust, although I neglected to take a picture.)Before you begin, take a picture of the keyboard. You may laugh now, but chances are very high that when you go to put the caps back on, you’ll be glad you did—it’s surprisingly difficult to remember exactly where all the keys go, even if you’re a good typist like I am.

Don’t remove long or oddly-shaped keys like the spacebar, shift keys, or return key unless absolutely necessary—many of them have little bars, multiple contact points, or other gimmicks that make them extremely easy to break and extremely difficult to get back on if you don’t break them (see the picture below). Most of the time you can do an acceptable job by removing the rest of the keys and then cleaning under the keys you didn’t remove.a bar under the shift keyTo actually remove key caps, take the two bent paperclips, stick one on each side, and pull them apart. If you happen to have a key cap puller, you can use it, but most people don’t (I actually do have one somewhere, but I couldn’t find it). Be careful when popping them off; most keys are made of pretty thin plastic and are easy to break accidentally. Once they’re all off, you can use any methods you want to clean the remainder of the junk out; I find Cyber Clean works especially well. You can also take this opportunity to wash the caps with soap and water; just make sure you dry them thoroughly before returning them to the keyboard.

When it comes time to replace the caps, place them in the appropriate place (making sure they’re not upside down, which is surprisingly easy to do with some letters like ‘H’) and push firmly on the very center of the cap until it snaps back into place.

Addendum: If you ever spill something on your keyboard…

  1. Immediately flip the keyboard upside down to prevent any more liquid from getting into it.
  2. Unplug the keyboard and remove the batteries (if applicable).
  3. If you spilled something sticky, get a glass of water and dump it on top of where you spilled your drink. Then flip it upside down again as before.
  4. Set a fan on your keyboard and leave it for a few hours. If you have air conditioning and it makes sense to use it, it can’t hurt to turn it on (it lowers the humidity).
  5. Plug the keyboard back into your computer and see if it works. If it works but it’s still sticky, follow these instructions to clean it up. (You’ll probably have to remove the key caps.) If it doesn’t work, you’re probably out of luck. If you have a laptop, the hard drive can probably still be salvaged (so you haven’t lost any data), and the keyboard can often be replaced for a fairly reasonable price if that was the only thing that was damaged.

Cleaning Your Computer, Part 2: Monitors

Most people do not clean their monitors nearly as often as they should (and that includes me). You usually don’t notice the eyestrain you’re getting from staring at dust, spots, and streaks all the time, but it’s still there. Here’s how to clean it up.


  • Rubbing alcohol (LCD screen cleaner or lens cleaner works fine as well if you have some). This is used to wipe down the surface of the monitor. If you’re using a bottle of alcohol, pour some into a bowl so you don’t contaminate the whole bottle.
  • A microfiber cloth (cotton balls work well too). This is used to wipe the dust off your monitor.
 (I didn’t have any cotton balls handy, so I’m just using the cloth this time. The little plastic container is the most convenient bowl-like object I had nearby.)


Step 1: Prepare your computer.
If you get a completely white screen, it will be much easier to see the spots you need to clean. The easiest way is to open a new tab in your browser and navigate to about:blank, which will give you a blank screen. Then press F11, and you should see something like the following.
 You may want to toggle to a black screen a couple of times while you’re in the middle of cleaning; some things show up better on white, while others show up better on black. Of course, getting a black screen is as easy as switching the monitor off.


Step 2: Wipe down the screen.
Dip your cloth or cotton ball in the alcohol or spray it with your lens cleaner. Start by wiping down the whole monitor, then take a closer look for little spots and rub harder on those. If you press very hard at all, the monitor may momentarily warp and discolor around that area; I’ve never seen any permanent damage from this, so I wouldn’t worry about it.


Step 3: Clean around the screen.
I always like to get the edges of the screen too; they collect just as much junk and dirt as the rest of the monitor. You can use the same treatment on them.


Step 4: Try to rub out remaining spots (optional). 
If you still have annoying spots or minor scratches, you might try to use a pencil eraser to touch them up. If you’re happy with how the monitor looks already, don’t worry about it.


Step 5: Wipe down the monitor one last time and dry it quickly.
While some streaks are pretty much inevitable, this does help a bit.
Next week I’ll show you how to clean your keyboard, which is quite possibly the filthiest place in your entire office.

How to Remove a Stuck CD From Your Drive

Ever gotten a disc stuck in your CD drive? It doesn’t happen often, but it can get really annoying. Sometimes rebooting will fix the problem, but rebooting can sometimes take a long time and doesn’t always even work. Here’s an easier way.

Warning: Do not attempt to use this technique if the CD drive is in use! You will very likely damage the drive and/or the CD. If you’re not sure if the drive might be in use, you should first power down the computer. Standby mode is fine, though, which might save you a good bit of time (on Windows 7, you click the arrow next to the “shut down” button to access standby).

To actually eject the disc, all you need is a paperclip. You’ll need to unbend it at least to the first bend, and probably to the second if you have a small paperclip. If you hold a paperclip up to the screen, the extended portion should be at least as long as half the extended portion in this image:

Locate the release hole on the front of the drive and push the tip of the paperclip in firmly as far as it goes. The hole I’m talking about is the little round one above the light.

If you’re lucky, as in the above picture, the drive will pop out enough so that you can grab the tray and slide it out carefully; however, sometimes the drive will stick in a spot where you can’t quite hold onto it. Fortunately, there’s an easy fix: flip the paperclip around and use the other end to pry it out:

Besides removing stuck discs, I use this trick to insert boot discs in computers that are currently turned off; it’s nice not to have to power the system on just to get the CD tray open.

Cleaning Your Computer, Part 1

Computers get rather dirty very quickly. Lots of dust and dirt looks bad, can make keys stick or monitors hard to read, and in certain cases, can even cause your computer to malfunction. Whenever you think about it, it’s a good idea to clean up a little bit. Over the next few parts, I’ll present my system for keeping everything clean.

First up this week, though, is the tools and cleaning products that I use. There are no hard and fast rules on what you can and cannot use to clean your computer (in general; don’t, for instance, soak your computer in the tub), but these generally do a good job.

  • A can of compressed air. This is better than your breath for several reasons. First, it’s much more powerful, and it comes with a little nozzle to direct a high-powered stream of air at a single point (for instance, you can clean the junk out of a keyboard with it; good luck doing that with your breath). Secondly, the moisture in your breath can theoretically cause electrical components to short out if you turn them on again too quickly. I’ve never seen this cause a problem, but I figure it’s better to be safe than sorry. (Warning: Compressed “air” is not actually plain air, and it’s weird stuff. Don’t spray it upside down, shake it before using, or try to inhale it. I’ve been looking for some reusable product that uses normal air instead of weird chemical compounds, but I haven’t found anything acceptable yet.)
  • A handheld or canister vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool. This comes in handy for dragging junk out of keyboards, computer cases, and any other things with small spaces. The compressed air does a good job loosening it, but the vacuum cleaner can do better with actually getting it out of the space. If you don’t have one, it’s not the end of the world, but it’s nice to have.
  • Rubbing alcohol. This does a great job at cleaning between keys, cleaning off the eyes on optical mice, wiping down screens, and all sorts of other stuff. You can pick up a cheap bottle at any drugstore if you don’t have some sitting around already.
  • Microfiber cloth. This is nice for cleaning off screens and for general wiping down of things. If you don’t have one, cotton balls are a perfectly acceptable substitute.
  • Q-tips. These are indispensable for wiping out small spaces.
  • Cyber Clean. This isn’t necessary, but it’s a handy cleaning compound that you can squish into small spaces to grab stuff stuck between them. It works great for keyboards and comes in handy for plenty of other stuff too. You can grab some at Amazon for $5 next time you’re buying something.

Save Your Eyes (and Sleep) When Using Your Computer at Night

Ever woken up early, gone to your computer, and switched on the monitor only to be blinded? I sure have. And recent research shows that too much blue light (LCD panels are very blue) in the evening can actually impact your sleep as well.

F.lux is a free utility that automatically changes the color temperature of your screen as the sun sets. You give it your latitude and longitude (if you don’t know, you can look it up by zip code), and as it begins to get dark the program will turn your screen redder. At first it looks really weird, but once you get used to it it’s significantly more comfortable to use your computer. If you ever use your computer after about seven o’clock or so, you should give f.lux a try.

Sound good? You can download f.lux here. Installation is super-simple: just run the setup file and then click the new icon in the system tray next to your clock to set your location and other settings.

Prolonging the Life of Your Batteries

Everyone has heard as much advice as they could need about how to keep their rechargeable batteries running the best for the longest. The trouble is that everyone’s advice contradicts everyone else’s. Some people say you should keep your batteries fully charged at all times; others say you should fully discharge your battery before recharging it again. Making the situation more confusing is the fact that there are at least four distinct kinds of rechargeable batteries (lead-acid, nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal hydride, and lithium ion), all of which work best with different conditions.

The following article applies to any lithium-ion (Li-ion) battery. Basically all portable computers, cell phones, mp3 players, etc., use lithium-ion batteries. If you’re not sure, you may be able to physically check the back of the battery pack, look in the manual, call the manufacturer, or just Google it (depending on how common the device is). If your device turns out to have a nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) battery (or an ancient-technology nickel-cadmium, or NiCd, battery), then you shouldn’t pay attention to these tips with that particular device, as what is good for one type of battery may well be directly harmful to another.


The following myths, facts, and statements about lithium-ion batteries are in no particular order.


You should periodically discharge your battery completely.
False. This belief generally comes from people who worked with old NiCd batteries, which had “memory,” meaning that if you discharged them only partially a few times, they’d soon refuse to charge to their maximum capacity. This could be remedied by completely discharging and recharging the battery a couple of times. Li-ion batteries do not have “memory,” so they do not need to be completely cycled–in fact, unnecessarily discharging them will shorten their life.


Leaving your laptop continuously plugged into the power grid is bad for the battery.
True. There is not a complete explanation for why this happens, but it certainly does. We do know that storing a Li-ion battery at 100% charge is stressful for it (keep reading for more on that), so it would make some sense that continuously using it at 100% charge would be bad as well. Additionally, laptops are hot, and Li-ion batteries do not like heat. If you mostly use your laptop at your desk, it makes sense to remove the battery and store it, then put it in and charge it up right before you do need to travel.


It is dangerous to leave a fully charged battery plugged in.
False. While batteries and chargers are never a sure bet, nearly all chargers will properly shut off current when the battery is fully charged. Depending on your charger, you may end up keeping your battery unnecessarily warm, which is not good for it. However, there is no safety risk in this practice.


Li-ion batteries can spontaneously explode.
Sort of. Batteries rarely truly explode, but they can occasionally catch fire. However, it is extremely rare, and is not something you generally need to worry about. If your battery begins to heat up excessively or show other signs of failure, you should take it out of the device immediately and put it somewhere with adequate ventilation. Even if it cools down normally, you should replace it or at least have it looked at by a qualified technician before reusing it. If they actually catch fire, lithium-ion batteries can be safely extinguished with a dry-chemical or foam fire extinguisher.


Li-ion batteries permanently lose capacity with every cycle.
True. This happens with many types of batteries. The capacity lost, however, depends on the depth of discharge, or how far you allow the battery’s charge to drop before recharging it. See the next statement.


Li-ion batteries last longer if they are not fully discharged.
True. The lower the discharge, the less stress is put on the battery. Completely discharging your battery 500 times may have the same effect on your battery as discharging it a quarter of the way 2,500 times! You should charge your battery more often and only use it completely when you really need to. Don’t, however, let this trick you into leaving your laptop plugged in all the time; as we should know by now, that’s not good for it either.


Li-ion batteries last longer if they are not fully charged.
Sort of. They will generally last longer if lower charging voltages are applied, which results in a lower capacity when the charge cycle is complete. However, simply charging your battery for part of the time with the full voltage will not accomplish this, and there are few to no commercially available chargers that use lower voltages. So when you’re deciding what to do with your battery to maximize its life, this isn’t really a consideration.


Electronic battery meters are accurate.
Sort of. Many modern battery meters are quite smart. However, batteries are not like gas tanks, which have a precise amount of gas remaining at all times–they use electrochemical processes, and they’re extremely unpredictable. Furthermore, their capacity changes as they age. Battery meters can often adjust themselves to give you a fairly accurate time remaining until discharge, but you still shouldn’t rely on them to give you a perfect estimate. (Furthermore, electronic devices consume different amounts of power depending on what you’re doing on them, providing a further obstacle to accurate battery metering, especially when the time provided is on the order of eight or ten hours in the future.)


You should discharge your battery completely if you need to calibrate the battery meter.
True. Some battery meters can better estimate the current state of the battery when they have a chance to see what happens to the battery as it fully discharges and then charges again. If you think your battery meter is doing a poor job, it might be worth a try.


Li-ion batteries do not like heat.
True. Especially when being stored, heat decreases the performance of Li-ion batteries. You should strive to keep them cool when possible. Many devices keep batteries quite hot, especially laptops; making sure there is clearance between the bottom of your laptop and whatever you’re resting it on can help.


You should store a Li-ion battery fully charged.
False. Roughly 40% is the magic number (many people say simply halfway charged). It is difficult to measure the exact percentage of capacity a battery is at (see the thing about battery meters), but running it roughly halfway down will certainly help a lot. In one test, a fully charged battery stored at 77 degrees Fahrenheit permanently lost 20% of its capacity in one year, whereas the same battery stored at 40% charge lost only 4% of its capacity.


It does not matter where you store a Li-ion battery.
False. Lithium-ion batteries should be stored in a cool, dry place to minimize permanent capacity loss. In one test, storing a properly charged battery (see above) at 77 degrees Fahrenheit as opposed to 104 degrees saved 11% of the battery’s capacity from being permanently lost, and storing it at freezing allowed it to lose only 2% of its capacity in an entire year.


If a Li-ion battery is left uncharged, it can permanently stop working.
True. Li-ion batteries have something called a protection circuit, which helps to prevent the battery from overheating or overcharging. The protection circuit needs some juice to keep watching the battery, which it takes from the battery (logically enough), so if the battery is about to die completely, the protection circuit will disable the battery before going under. This is called “sleep mode,” and regular chargers can never wake up a battery that has gone into sleep mode.


It is okay to allow a Li-ion battery to discharge completely before storing.
False. As discussed above, if you store an empty battery for more than a short length of time, the protection circuit can permanently disable the battery. Always charge a battery (preferably to about halfway charged) before putting it into storage. If your device dies, recharge it as soon as possible.


Li-ion batteries stop working before they are really out of juice.
Sort of. The protection circuit typically cuts off power to the device when each cell is at about 3 volts (the maximum is usually 3.8). However, here’s the “sort of”: Most devices can’t run off less than 3 volts/cell anyway. Furthermore, the protection circuit needs to leave itself some power to keep the battery safe until it’s recharged.


It is possible to short-circuit a Li-ion battery by carrying it in your pocket.
True. While just carrying a battery in your pocket won’t do anything, most people are liable to carry other things in their pockets as well, like keys and change. Metallic objects can touch the contacts and cause a short circuit, which could potentially cause the battery to overheat and catch fire. Admittedly, this doesn’t happen often, but to be safe you should always place electrical tape over the contacts and/or place the battery in a plastic bag when transporting loose batteries, whether you put them in a pocket, purse, or luggage.


You cannot bring Li-ion batteries on airplanes.
Mostly false. You cannot check Li-ion batteries. However, you can keep them in your carry-on, as long as they are properly isolated from things that might cause a short (see above). This policy is because a fire that starts in the passenger compartment can be easily put out (Li-ion battery fires can be extinguished in a matter of seconds with ordinary fire extinguishers), but nobody can do anything about a fire that starts in the hold (if they even notice it in the first place).


You can throw away Li-ion batteries in the trash.
Sort of. Lithium-ion batteries aren’t nearly as toxic or dangerous as nickel-cadmium or lead-acid batteries, so it is not considered taboo to throw one in the trash. However, you still can and should recycle them if you have any option to (there are a lot of stores and municipalities that accept used Li-ion batteries, so it shouldn’t be terribly difficult unless you live in the middle of nowhere).


  • Recharge batteries as often as possible, and avoid discharging them completely.
  • Remove batteries from your laptop if you are not using them for a long period of time.
  • Keep batteries cool.
  • Discharge batteries further than necessary.
  • Allow batteries to remain discharged for extended periods of time.
  • Constantly leave your laptop plugged into the power grid with the battery sitting at 100%.
  • Rely on a battery meter being perfect.
  • Carry loose batteries without properly insulating them, or place them in checked baggage.
When you store a battery:
  • Store your battery anytime you’re not using it for more than a couple of weeks (if it’s removable).
  • Discharge or charge your battery until it’s about 40-50% full. Do not store your battery fully discharged under any circumstances.
  • Place the battery in a plastic bag to avoid the chance of shorts and keep it dry, and store it in a cool place.
Soren “scorchgeek” Bjornstad


If you have found an error or notable omission in this tip, please leave a comment or email me:


Copyright 2012 Soren Bjornstad.
Verbatim copying and redistribution of part or all of this article
is permitted, provided this notice is preserved.

While I relied on my memory and personal experience in a couple of places, for the most part I drew the information for this tip from Battery University’s website. Some of the pages are highly technical and not interesting to most of us, but I do highly recommend the one about how to prolong the life of lithium-based batteries.

EDIT: (Also, my bad! In my email to the list, I claimed there were 19 myths and facts, when in fact there are only 18. Only a problem if you’re particular like me.)

How to Touch Up Your LCD Monitor

Is your monitor starting to get a bit old? Does it have some scratches and spots on it? Yeah, so did mine. In fact, I was about ready to get rid of it. And then I read something that provided the following novel method for fixing up scratches in your screen: a pencil eraser.

Yes, you read that right. If your monitor’s more than a couple of years old and it has any kind of spots or scratches on it, you owe it to yourself to give this method a shot.
You only need four things:
  • a clean cloth (preferably microfiber, the kind they sell for cleaning glasses or monitors)
  • a few cotton balls (if you don’t have any, a second cloth will do in a pinch)
  • rubbing alcohol (pour a little out into a bowl so you don’t contaminate the rest of the bottle)
  • a clean pencil eraser
Here’s how:
  1. Clean off the pencil eraser if it’s been used to erase anything. Just rub the outer layer of it off until you don’t see any smudges on it anymore. Smashing graphite particles into your monitor isn’t going to help anything.
  2. Open up your web browser and type “about:blank” (without the quotes) in the address bar, then press F11 to display the page full-screen. This will give you a blank white screen. (You do this so you can see all the spots easily.)
  3. Dip a cotton ball into the rubbing alcohol and clean off the monitor with it. Reportedly, this is the method that manufacturers use to clean the displays as they reach the end of the assembly line; regardless of whether that’s true or not, it works well.
  4. Wipe the monitor dry with the cloth.
  5. Take the eraser and carefully rub it onto all the scratches and spots, and watch as they magically disappear, or at least get better. It’s fine to use some pressure as long as you work deliberately and don’t smash the monitor.
  6. Blow off the eraser dust if there’s any left, and clean the monitor again. You can repeat steps 2-6 as many times as you want, until you’re satisfied with the result. It may take a couple of runs to completely get rid of the problems.
  7. When you’re done, press F11 or Escape, depending on your browser, to get out of the full-screen mode.
Of course, this method isn’t going to work for horrible gashes down the center of your monitor, but for relatively minor blemishes, it works like a charm. I had a damaged spot that was about an inch square, and after doing this I can’t even see it anymore.
Soren “scorchgeek” Bjornstad
If you have found an error or notable omission in this tip, please leave a comment or email me:
Copyright 2011 Soren Bjornstad.
Verbatim copying and redistribution of part or all of this article
is permitted, provided this notice is preserved.